Peru: the súper flaite way! (Cusco-Part I)

For those of you that don't know, the word "flaite" is a Chilean slang word used to describe extremely sketchy situations or people.  I just got home from an extremely packed 11-day trip to Peru, and I don't even know where to start as far as writing about it goes...  all I can say is, it was SUPER flaite.  I went with my friends Jessica and Edgar, and we were most concerned with doing everything as cheaply as possible, so as to do as much as possible.  Needless to say, "cheap" in Peru redefines any American definition of "cheap", and most of the trip was pretty sketch.  However, I saw a LOT of Peru, and although I rarely showered/slept, I have no regrets about any of it.  It was definitely the best 11 days I've had in South America, and Peru is an absolutely incredible country with SO much to do!  Ok, so my journey started with a 30-hour bus ride to Arica, the northern-most city in Chile.  I wasn't crazy about the idea of such a long time on a bus, but it was either that or spend about 4x as much flying to Arica.  Since it is still so early in my South American travels, I just decided to save my money and go with taking the bus. 

I left for Arica at 3 pm on the 20th after going to the most pointless school orientation of my life... the adviser gave no advice and pretty much told me that I could find everything online.  Hey thanks!  I'm so glad I postponed my Peru trip just to attend that orientation!

I got into Arica at about 10 pm the next day.  For the most part, I was traveling with Jessica, who is a part of my program, and Edgar, who I go to UCSC with... he is doing a month-long program in Santiago, so I invited him at the last minute to join us on our trip.  We got into Arica to this little hostel run by a "bilingual" couple (the husband would only speak English to us, even though we were perfectly capable of talking to him in Spanish, and I had no idea what he was saying half of the time), where I took the coldest shower of my LIFE before going to sleep.

We woke up super early the next day to cross the border into Peru.  Luckily, American citizens get a free 60-day tourist visa into Peru, so it wasn't the money I was worried about... it was the actual crossing part that was super sketchy.  First, you have to find a taxi that will take you over the border... and then, you have to wait for the taxi to fill.  We ended up taking a super sketchy Buick with these two Colombian guys, who seemed really cool, until they weren't allowed over the border... haha.  Our transportation over the border:

Luckily, this way of transportation over the border is also very cheap, and the driver walks you through everything you need to know about filling out paperwork and whatnot.  By the time we got into Tacna (Peru!), it was about 9 am, and we wanted to get to Arequipa as quickly as possible.  I found a cheap bus company, and after we quickly exchanged our Chilean pesos into Peruvian soles, we packed into our first "real" Peruvian bus ride (of many).  I had just gone with the first bus company that I saw, and I had no idea that there were both bad and good options for contracting buses in Peru... we got a pretty sketchy one, to say the least.  For one, we stopped about 7 times so that the National Police could come on the bus and "check".  Apparently, they were looking for any brand-name items that were "smuggled" into the country, because at one stop, they were looking through the overhead compartments and found a pile of Banana Republic sweaters.  After asking who they belonged to several times and receiving no answer, they immediately just took the sweaters and left... and then we were on our way.  Also, at the very beginning of our ride, there was this lady walking around with all of these name-brand shoes and asking everyone on the bus if we would try them on.  She was literally begging and whining at us... I almost said yes once (I don't know why), and then she was REALLY on my case about wearing her stupid shoes.  At one checkpoint she was escorted off the bus by the police... I'm not sure what her deal was, but I was NOT ready to get kicked out of Peru just yet, so there was no way I was putting on those shoes.  When we finally got to Arequipa, our original plan was to stay there for a while before heading to Cusco, but after about an hour we realized that there was nothing really to do in Arequipa, so we might as well head to Cusco.  We took an overnight bus to Cusco, which was both a bad and a good thing... we opted for the "nice" bus that time, so I was actually able to sleep (well, kind of) without the fear that my things were going to be taken, but we didn't arrive in Cusco until 7 am the next morning.  By the time we arrived, we were SO happy that we were in some kind of destination, so we immediately went and checked into a hostel (after accidentally waking up our Dutch roommate several times at 7 am, who was NOT very happy to see us), and then embarked to start our exploring of Cusco.

Cusco is absolutely beautiful, and was especially beautiful that day because it had rained the night before, so most of the smog had cleared up for us.  We walked around, saw the Plaza de Armas and churches, saw some Inca ruins in the middle of the city, went to the Qorikancha museum, and eventually made our way up to a giant Jesus statue on the hill above the Plaza de Armas.  Also, Peru's Independence was July 28th, so there were celebrations happening all over the city!  It was awesome to witness it!

Eating at the market with Jessica and Edgar (I think doing this too many times was what eventually gave me food poisoning... no bueno):

Plaza de Armas:

Qorikancha museum:

Ruins next to the Jesus statue:

View from the Jesus statue--you could see ALL of Cusco!  It was beautiful!

There are children all over Peru that just come up and ask you for money and food... this girl (and lots of other women and children) just decided to dress up... we paid about 1 sol (~35 cents) for this picture!

La Plaza de Armas, again:

We were literally going and going for about 12 hours that day, until we stopped to eat for a while.  In Peru, Ecuador, and I think in Colombia too, there is a delicacy there called "cuy": I will show you the pictures before I describe this very interesting dish:

In case you can't tell from the pictures, "cuy" is fried guinea pig.  It was SO NASTY.  I figured, hey, I don't know when I'll ever be in Peru again... I have to try it.  It literally looked like someone had taken a guinea pig and dropped it in frying oil... there were still organs, brains, teeth, fingernails... it was pretty gross.  It tasted like a combination between chicken and fish (there really is no other way to describe it), and it was super stringy.  I couldn't eat more than a bite of it at a time because it also had a terrible aftertaste.  But, I'm glad that I tried it, although I will never try it again... haha.

After our cuy experience, we were SO tired and went back to the hostel to sleep.  The next morning we got up super early and embarked on our journey to the Sacred Valley!  More to come later!  

Los Andes, Chile

So, I have kind of failed on updating my blog.  Luckily, though, I have set out a long period of time for tonight so I can update all of you on my past week!  And I will be putting up more pictures, by request of my mom.

Last Tuesday I went to La Moneda, which is the white house of Chile... it was super interesting to see it, because there has been so much intense political turmoil in Chile for the past 40 years.  The only thing I wasn't so happy about was that it POURED that day, and I failed to check the weather report that morning... so I walked around La Moneda with my flats (that, by the way, have holes), soaked pants, and hoodless jacket... without an umbrella, of course.  It was still interesting to see, but the tour ended in about 15 minutes and we weren't allowed to explore afterward, which is perfectly viable.  

Anyway, La Moneda:

Then on Wednesday, I went to the "China Town" of Santiago, which wasn't really China town... there was a large mix of Middle Eastern stores and Korean markets, and a lady who sold "egg rolls", which were filled with cheese and vegetables... more like empanada rolls, but they were good nonetheless.

On Thursday, I went to "Concha Y Toro", a winery on the outskirts of Santiago.  It was really nice that day, which was definitely a nice change.  We could see the mountains behind the vineyards, which was beautiful!  We got a tour of the winery and tried 2 different types of wine... there were definitely many people who bought many bottles of the wine, but I wasn't impressed.  Chilean wines have 5-6% more alcohol content than US wines, so it was too bitter and smoky.  Call me a wimp, I don't care, but I didn't like it.  The winery itself, though, was beautiful! :

Let's see... this past weekend, I went to Los Andes, which is a town of about 55,000 people about an hour north of Santiago.  I have decided that my favorite part of my trip so far has been my trips outside of Santiago, because I finally feel like I am in a different country!  I like Santiago because I like living in a city, but in Santiago I feel like I'm still in the United States.  A lot of people don't speak English, but my Spanish is good enough to get by that, and people are just... people.  They push you on the metro, they shop in the same store that is on every corner, and they jaywalk.  Chileans are super friendly, but when you get in the city there's a bit of a different mentality... People still go out of their way to give you directions (so much different from the US! Some guy pulled out a GPS and walked me to school the other day), but they're all on their own agenda.  When I was in Los Andes, the people were so friendly and accommodating!

I went to Los Andes for a group project.  We had to travel to a city outside of Santiago and then give a presentation about the place's history and such.  We got to Los Andes on Saturday morning (there were 5 of us).  We stopped by the visitor's center there, and the worker there recommended we go to this hotel that was above a restaurant about 3 blocks away.  We obliged, and when we got there, we were greeted by Patricio, the owner of the restaurant.  During our time in Los Andes we got to know Patricio and his family pretty well, and he even offered to have us come stay in October to work at a wedding at his restaurant.

When we left the restaurant, we planned to go to the winery along the road that Patricio recommended we go to.  When we walked outside of the restaurant, there was this guy in a horse-drawn cart... my friend flagged him down, and he gave us a ride in his cart to the winery, which was about 30 minutes away (by horse!  Definitely not right down the road!).  His name was Don Elias, and he invited us to go ride horses at his house the next day.  The ride, although a little bumpy, was absolutely beautiful, but when we finally got to the vineyard, the winery was closed!  So, we took pictures in the vineyards and in front of the snowy mountains... it was definitely a good trade off :)

Don Elias giving us a ride to the vineyard:

Horses, carriage, and my group:

Nancy, Yessi, and I in the vineyard:

Since we were about an hour from town, we took a micro back to "downtown" Los Andes, where we looked at the Plaza de Armas and other touristy things:

We also went to the sanctuary... In Los Andes, many people worship Santa Teresa, a nun from the early 20th century who only lived to be 20 years old.  When she was only 19, she got a premonition that she would only live a little while longer, and that she should dedicate her life to God.  She died 11 months later, and in those 11 months she embarked on an intense journey to dedicate her life to God.  She only stayed in the sanctuary, and had no mirrors or makeup or anything.  Now, nuns in that sanctuary never leave... ever.  They grow their own fruit and vegetables, and then have other groceries delivered.  They also have no mirrors or anything, as this expresses vanity.   

After checking out the church, we went out for dinner and then went back to the hotel.  We ended up staying in that night and talking to Carmelita, Patricio's sister-in-law, about Chilean life for a couple of hours before going to sleep.  Carmelita was super friendly and she offered several times to have us come stay with her so she could make us Pino Empanadas (famous in Chile) and we could sleep in her house as guests.

The next day, we got up and talked to Patricio, and then went out again to get more information about Los Andes.  We went to the second sanctuary for Santa Teresa, which was a much bigger and more formal church in the hills of Los Andes.  Then, we took a bus to Cerro Virgen, where we literally CLIMBED up a hill to get to a statue of Virgin Mary at the top.  We could have taken the trail, but a local told us that it would take us about an hour just to get up... we didn't have an hour, so we literally went right up the mountain, and got there about 20 minutes later haha.

You can't really tell, but this is the Virgin Mary on top of the hill, when we were about halfway up:

...and this is the view from the top!  Too bad it was so hazy, it was absolutely beautiful up there:

After we climbed down the hill, we called Don Elias from the previous day and went and rode horses with him.  Don't worry, we didn't go to his house or anything, I'm not that stupid... we met him in a large, communal area where there were people playing soccer, and he brought two horses with him for us to ride.  It was so much fun, but at the same time, it was a completely different side of Chile that I hadn't seen before... people were living in shacks and there was garbage everywhere.  It was especially interesting because the two protagonists that we met this weekend, Patricio and Elias, had the same intentions: to raise their families well and to get the most out of their life in Los Andes, but their situations were polar opposites.  While Patricio had enough money to send all 4 of his kids on exchange to the US, 2 restaurants, and a master's degree in philosophy, Elias was struggling to keep his head above water in the poorest neighborhood in Los Andes.  He was 1 of 11 kids, and picked fruit everyday for a living, only to haul it in the cart that we had rode in the day before.  It was super interesting, but sad at the same time... here are some pictures of our horseback riding experience:

Some Chilean girls we met there (I think they were nieces of Elias):

The river that ran right by the houses:

...yup, there were pigs eating all of that garbage... they were fat, and fierce:

After interviewing some of the people in the area, we went back to the hotel and watched the World Cup.  We then saw the solar eclipse with Patricio and his family, which was super fun. Eventually, we left, and made our way back to Santiago.  It was SO nice to be out of the city and smog for the weekend!  On our way back, we encountered a parade dedicated to Santa Teresa, since it is her birthday... today!  Happy birthday, Santa Teresa!  She would've been 110.  Just kidding.

Wooo... Los Andes!  So beautiful.  Hopefully I will be able to make it back before I leave! :)

Cerro San Cristobal

Yesterday I went to Cerro San Cristobal, a hill in the centro of Santiago, to see the sunset.  To get to the top of the hill, you have to either take a funicular, or hike up.  Since we had a late start, we took the funicular route... after I was up there, I realized JUST how much smog is in Santiago.  It's pretty visible every day, but when I got up to the top and the sun had gone down, there was an orange haze that covered the entire city.  It was still a beautiful view, though, and from up there I could see the entire city of Santiago, the Andes, and the mountains that border the ocean to the west.

At the top of Cerro San Cristobal is a giant statue of the Virgin Mary that lights up at night.  I can see the statue from my house during all times of the day.  The pictures shown above are (in order):

1) The Virgin Mary, lit up at night

2) Santiago at night

3) Some people from my program and I standing in front of the Virgin Mary

4) Santiago right before sunset (I'm not sure why the pictures were uploaded with this one near the end, but I'm too lazy to fix them)

5) The only flower on the top of Cerro San Cristobal :)

Let's see... in other news, about 40 of the people from my program and I went to a restaurant called California Cantina last night to celebrate the 4th of July.  Needless to say we all had a really good time, and it was nice to have some good food...!  California Cantina was established by 2 California students who studied abroad in Santiago a few years ago and loved it so much that they stayed and opened their own restaurant!  Although I asked if I could get a discount for being an "authentic" Californian (I even had my license!), the waiters wouldn't oblige. 

I'm starting my second week of Spanish class tomorrow.  The class I'm taking is actually helping me a lot, although it's hard to be in school when I feel like I'm on vacation.  I have definitely been noticing an improvement in my Spanish, though, which I'm super excited about.

Hopefully my next post will include some pictures of my host family and house for everyone to see.  I tried taking a picture at dinner tonight but it's just hard to get everyone together!  I am really enjoying living with them, but I think I am going to move out at the end of my language program to find a cheaper living situation... because, after all, my intention is to travel as much as I can after this semester before I go home, and I'm going to need to save as much money as I can!

That's it for my update!  It's short, but I have a pile of homework that I need to finish before tomorrow!  Happy 4th of July to everyone in the states! :)

In Chile, Send Chocolate

Today I had my first real food craving in Chile.

I was sitting at the bus stop in Valparaiso when I started to crave some candy.  I went to a small store, but all they had were biscuits or wafers covered in chocolate.  Now, there's nothing wrong with buttery goodness covered in chocolate, but the staple diet of Chile consists of bread and butter... needless to say, I've become pretty tired of this in only the week that I've been here.  What I really, really wanted was just a pack of M&M's... just a handful would've done the trick.  I bought a chocolate covered cookie and a pack of Chilean jelly beans, but neither tasted very good, and after I finished them I was totally unsatisfied.  I am now going on a mission for the next couple of days to find some good American candy-- as stupid or vain as this may sound, I don't know if I can handle the next six months without some M&M's or very bittersweet chocolate a couple of times per week.

The food in Chile isn't bad, but it isn't good either.  Meat, potatoes, biscuits, and mayonnaise are the 4 staple food groups.  I would have thought that the country that exports a large majority of vegetables to the US would've had more to offer as far as cheap vegetables go, but this isn't the case (probably because it's winter).  This weekend I went on an impromptu trip to Valparaiso with about 10 other people from my program, and we had to eat out for 3 of the meals that we had technically paid for at our host houses back in Santiago.  Last night I split a dinner with a girl in my program, and we were expecting some sort of potato dish with chicken... instead, we got a plate that was honestly the size of my torso, filled up with a mountain of undercooked french fries, chicken, sausage, and onions.  And on the side?  Mayonnaise.  Mmmmmm.... greasy food covered in mayonnaise.  Sounds like my kind of meal.  And today, when I ordered a chicken sandwich, I got yet another giant plate of food, this time with an enormous biscuit filled with about 4 mashed avocados with chicken, tomato, and... mayonnaise.  There was enough mayo on that sandwich to have lasted me my entire time in Chile... needless to say I will now be asking for my meals "sin mayonesa".

On a lighter note, my trip to Valparaiso was filled with new friends, exploring, and lots of street art.  Here are a few of my favorites:

There are, of course, more, but Blogspot won't allow me to post more than 5 at a time at the internet at my host house is terribly slow.  Anyway, so I stayed in Valparaiso for 2 days and 1 night in an international hostel.  We walked around the city (which is known as the "cultural capital of Chile") and visited one of Pablo Neruda's houses.  It was super fun and I can't wait to go back!  It was also nice to get out of Santiago to get away from the smog and the cold.

Oh, before I go, if you feel like sending me a letter (or something else... hint hint) my address is:

Megan Libby

c/o U de California

PUC Campus Oriente

Jaime Guzmán 3300

Nuñoa

Santiago, Chile

That's all for now!  My language classes start tomorrow so I'm off to bed to wake up bright and early to finish my visa process beforehand! :)

Algarrobo

The biggest pool in the world in Algarrobo, Chile.  Some people were braver than I was and actually jumped in!
(above): the biggest pool in the world in Algarrobo, Chile

This past week I went to Algarrobo, Chile, for an orientation for my program.  The program is for all UC campuses, so there are about 53 of us here.  We stayed at a little hotel on the beach.  At first I was a little hesitant... we are in the middle of winter right now, so why would we be going to the beach?  It was SO nice at the beach, though... it felt about 80 degrees Fahrenheit.  It was also a good opportunity to meet everyone from my program.  Most of the students are from UCSB, but all of the UC campuses are represented.  

We had a lot of free time in Algarrobo, so we went walking along the beach a lot since it was so nice out.  It was so beautiful, and there was this giant hotel (above) along the beach... it looked familiar, but I didn't know why.  Then, as my friend was talking to some random Chilean woman for directions, she asked him if he'd seen "la piscina mas grande del mundo."  Yup... Algarrobo is home to the biggest pool in the world.  We walked down to the pool several times, and the last time we climbed over the fence to take pictures of the pool.  I can't even describe how huge it is!  You can rent kayaks and paddle boats, and the security guard had to take a boat over to us to tell us to leave haha (and when we saw him get in the boat, we knew we still had a few minutes because it would take so long to get to the other side!).  Some people jumped in, but I didn't bring my swimsuit... and the pool isn't heated in the winter time.  

We stayed in Algarrobo for 2 nights, and on the last day we watched the Chile-Spain soccer game.  Chile lost 2-1, but there was still a lot of celebration that night because Chile will still move on to play Brazil on Monday.  Our program director told us that if Chile HAD won, though, there would be riots in the streets, because so many people would be celebrating... also, I've heard many times that tear gas is used pretty regularly here, so it would've definitely been used.  I'm definitely looking forward to that! (not really, but it will be interesting to tell people once I'm back in the US).

Today I went out and bought myself a prepaid phone for local calls.  Tomorrow I'm off to Valparaiso with some people from my program, and then Monday is a holiday and the Chile-Brazil game.  Apparently Brazil is one of the best teams, so Chile isn't expected to win, but my host brother promised that he would run up and down our street naked if Chile won.  As apathetic as I usually am about sports, I am cheering for Chile now!

CHI CHI CHI, LE LE LE... VIVA CHILE! :)

Let's see... where should I begin?  I've only been in Santiago for about 30 hours, but so much has already happened.

I arrived in Santiago, Chile at 5:30 am yesterday morning after traveling for about 24 hours.  I had a layover in both LAX and Lima, Peru, which weren't so bad.  My flight from LAX to Peru was brutal, though... I left LA at 1:20 and didn't get to Lima until 8 hours later.  When I got to Santiago, I took a cab from the airport to the program's meeting place. I was planning on waiting around to meet up with a few people from my program to split a cab, but as I was waiting this lady at the taxi stand started yelling at me to get a cab so I had to hire my own (I had to pay $34! So much for a budget!). Anyway, so it's 5:30 am, I haven't slept at all, and the driver is talking to me in Spanish asking me where I'm going. I tell him, but then I'm like, what am I going to do in Chile at this university with all of my stuff at 6 am? My program didn't start til 12. So I was asking the driver, and he's like, "well, nothing's really open, so you can always go sit at McDonalds" and then he starts laughing, and I'm like great, it's my first day here and I'm already going to get killed for being an idiot and sitting alone by myself in the dark because nothing is open.  So we end up at the University and he just drops me off and I started freaking out, but then this guy from UCSC came out of no where and had already had an arrangement set up where he dropped his bags off at security. So luckily I was able to do the same, and then we walked around the city for like an hour but nothing was open except for gas stations and McDonalds.

Because my program started at noon, hardly anyone showed up until about 11 am.  I was sitting in the main hall of Pontifical University of Chile with a few other students when this Chilean guy comes out of no where with a flag on his back and invited us to watch the Chile-Switzerland game at 10 am in the cafeteria.  We obliged and at 10 we went to the cafeteria to watch the game.  The room was packed and we had to stand in the back, but it didn't really matter because we wouldn't have been able to see anyway, because any time Chile had the ball all of the students would be standing up, screaming, and chanting.  Chile ended up winning 1-0... it was so intense when Chile scored that 1 point!  People were screaming, hugging each other, crying... it was cool to see all of them so into the game.  Chileans were celebrating the win all day afterward... there was honking in the streets, people were throwing paper, and when I went for a walk in the park afterward with 3 other UC students and our host madres, there was this big group of Chileans drinking and giving everyone high-fives, and one of the madres was like, "hay mas vino en el sangre que chileno en el sangre", so I guess it's pretty typical haha.

I got my host family after the soccer game.  I'm living in the Providencia neighborhood in Santiago with a woman named Gladys and her 4 kids and 2 grandkids.  It's nice because there are 3 other UC students on the block, and Gladys is really good friends with all of their host madres.  So I've been spending a lot of time with them, like yesterday we all went for a walk around the neighborhood to get our bus passes and to exchange money, and then afterward we all went over to one madre's house and had a big dinner.  There were about 15 of us at this tiny table, and the madres had prepared a feast!  We ate biscuits with egg salad, tuna salad, hearts of palm, and chicken, and there were also all sorts of sweet breads and wines.  It was interesting because the madres were telling us stories about other foreign students they'd had before who had said really stupid things that they thought had meant something else... I have learned to look up ANYTHING I say because in Chile almost anything can be twisted into a sexual innuendo haha.  For instance (this is the "cleanest" example I can think of haha), "estoy embarazada" means "I'm pregnant", but many of them said that they'd had students who'd said that to mean that they were embarrassed.  I'm sure many of them were even more embarrassed when they found out the actual meaning!  After dinner, I came home and passed out because I'd barely slept in the past few days.

The city of Santiago itself is nothing special... it's very smoggy and busy.  It reminds me of a combination of the Mission District of San Francisco and Honolulu.  I'm excited to start my language classes, too, because I can communicate on a very basic level with people, but I definitely can't have conversations with them.  Tomorrow my program is off to the beach to have orientation!  And then I'm back in Santiago in time for a 3-day weekend.

I will write more later, but for now I'm going to go!  Ciao!